Making Filhós, is a cherished Portuguese tradition, brings back fond memories of Carnaval celebrations for many. These delightful doughnuts, known as Filhós (pronounced FUH-Lahj) in the Azores, particularly on the island of Terceira, are a family affair.
The magic lies in the yeast dough, patiently allowed to rise until doubled in size. Soft, stretchy spoonfuls are dropped into hot oil, transforming into golden-brown treats. The grand finale involves coating them in white sugar, creating warm, sugary clouds for the whole family to enjoy.
Eating Filhós hot off the fryer is a family rule, gathering everyone in the kitchen to laugh, talk, and indulge. Fat Tuesday and the days leading up to Carnaval are filled with sweet treats and comedic sketches, a celebration of culture, family, and tradition wrapped in fried dough.
Walking into my grandmother's kitchen during Filhós making time was stepping into another world. The intoxicating aroma and her expert handling of the dough, frying it to perfection, and coating it in sugar mesmerized me. She always had a mini doughnut ready for me to roll in sugar, a simple act that filled all of us kids with joy.
The technique for perfecting Filhós is passed down through generations. Using modern conveniences like a Kitchen-aid mixer makes the process easier, but the ritual remains largely the same. Each step connects me to my Portuguese ancestors and the rich culinary history they preserved.
As the dough rises, the fun begins. Pulling apart pieces, stretching them into discs, and gently dropping them into bubbling oil is nothing short of magical. The finishing touch of cinnamon-sugar makes them irresistible. This tradition continues, tying our family history together. The scent of freshly fried Filhós fills the house, drawing everyone to the kitchen, symbolizing a beautiful tapestry of family, history, and love woven through generations.
A Taste of the Azores: The Filhós Origins
Filhós have a rich history in the Azores, where our family is from, and where they have been a festive staple for centuries. The yeast-based dough combines milk, eggs, butter, and flour, with each family having its unique version. After rising, the dough is shaped and deep-fried until golden brown, then coated in sugar.
Portuguese immigrants preserved and spread this culinary tradition to other parts of the world, including Hawaii and the United States. In Hawaii, they are known as Malassadas, reflecting a slightly different preparation, but with similar roots. Regional differences in the Azores also exist, with variations in shape and name, such as Portuguese doughnuts shaped into rings on Graciosa or stretched into triangles on São Miguel.
Growing up, making Filhós was a family affair filled with cherished memories. The bustling kitchen, aromatic blend of yeast, sugar, and warmth filled the air. As children, our job was coating the golden, crispy doughnuts in sugar, a task we performed with utmost dedication and pride. One particularly memorable year, our family gathered in the Azores for my cousin's wedding during Carnaval week. The islands came alive with colorful parades, joyous music, and an abundance of Filhós. Each village had its unique twist, and we indulged in every variation. My favorite memory was dressing up as Minnie Mouse for a local parade. Even far from home, the sense of community was palpable, and making Filhós with the locals was a comforting reminder of our shared heritage.
Passing down the recipe through generations is vital to our cultural identity. I recall calling my 92-year-old grandmother for the original recipe. Within minutes, she shared not just the ingredients but also stories of her youth and the subtle differences in technique that made all the difference.
The most beautiful aspect of making Filhós is the love and laughter that accompanies it. My grandmother used to say that the dough knew our emotions, and if we were happy, the Filhós would turn out perfect. It's a lesson in patience and joy that resonates deeply with me.
Our family's take on Filhós favors a yeast dough that rises to perfection, ensuring a light, airy interior and a crisp exterior. Once fried, they are immediately dusted in sugar, just like I learned from my grandmother. Whether it's during Fat Tuesday, Easter, or a random Saturday when nostalgia hits, making Filhós is more than a culinary activity—it's a heartfelt celebration that brings us together, reminding us of our heritage and the enduring love that binds us.
The Recipe for Portuguese Donuts
Ingredients:
1/2 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the bowl
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 package active dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons or 1/4 ounce)
1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons warm water (110°F / 43°C)
3 large eggs
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface
Nonstick cooking spray
Vegetable oil, for frying
For the cinnamon sugar:
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Make the doughnuts (Filhó):
Heat milk, butter, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until it just begins to steam and form bubbles around the edges (about 5 minutes). Remove from heat and let cool until lukewarm.
In a small bowl, dissolve yeast and 1 teaspoon sugar in warm water. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or with a hand mixer in a large bowl, beat the remaining 1/3 cup sugar and the eggs on medium-high until thick and luscious looking, about 5 minutes.
Switch to the dough hook, add the milk mixture, yeast mixture, and flour, and mix on low speed until a soft dough forms, about 7 minutes, adding more flour if needed. The dough should be just slightly tacky but not sticky.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface, shape into a ball, and place in a lightly buttered large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, about 2 hours.
Lightly coat a 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray and turn the dough onto the pan. Press and poke it with your fingers, much like making focaccia, to help stretch it until it's about 1/2 inch thick. Lightly coat the top of the dough with cooking spray, loosely cover the pan with plastic wrap, and let the dough rest at room temperature until doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
Mix together sugar and cinnamon in a shallow bowl.
Fill a medium saucepan with 3 inches of oil and heat over medium-high heat until it reaches 350°F (177°C). Monitor the heat to keep a steady temperature.
Using scissors or your hands, cut or pull a 2-to-3-inch piece of dough from the baking sheet and stretch it into a 4-to-5-inch circle. Lower it into the oil and fry, turning frequently, just until golden brown on both sides and cooked through, 45 seconds to 1 1/2 minutes, depending on the size.
Drain the doughnut on paper towels for 30 seconds and then toss in the cinnamon sugar. Repeat with the remaining dough. Devour warm.
Tips for Making Perfect Filhós
To create perfect Filhós at home, focus on a few key elements and techniques. The dough should be soft, stretchy, and slightly tacky but not overly sticky. Add the right amount of flour—too much results in heavy doughnuts, while too little makes the dough difficult to work with.
Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free spot until it doubles in size, usually about two hours. This slow rise is key to achieving a light, airy texture when fried.
When frying, keep the oil at a consistent 350°F (177°C). A thermometer helps monitor the temperature accurately. Handle the dough gently when shaping, avoiding overworking it.
After frying each piece, drain on paper towels before tossing in sugar. Coat them while still warm to ensure the sugar sticks properly. Cinnamon sugar adds an extra layer of flavor.
Avoid adding too much flour during the initial mix, not letting the dough rise fully, and frying at incorrect temperatures. For optimal taste, enjoy Filhós fresh and warm.
Optional Toppings
Plain Sugar Coating: Instead of cinnamon sugar, coat the doughnuts in plain granulated sugar.
Fruit Preserves: Eat with Naede's Jam from Avila and Sons Farms, adding the sweet tangy taste of summer fruit to the fried dough treat.
Maple Syrup: Serve warm doughnuts with a side of maple syrup for dipping.
Lemon Zest: Mix finely grated lemon zest with the sugar before coating for a citrus twist.
Custard Filling: Slice the doughnuts open and fill with homemade custard or pudding for a richer treat.
Coming from a Central Valley Portuguese background; family, faith and farming are in our blood. Located in sunny Central CA, the Avila and Sons Farms are the perfect place to cultivate rich agricultural crops. We have 40 acres of land that grows our nut and fruit orchards, as well as other fruit and vegetable crops.
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